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tavramov
MF1 Setup - Australia GP
Apr 9 2011, 4:27 PM EDT | Post edited: Apr 9 2011, 4:49 PM EDT
Hello,
I am stuck in Australia GP (career mode, difficulty: HARD) with a MF1 car and I can not find the optimum set up - my best times give me a #16 qualification slot (1:29:735). I tried the set up above but did not improve by much. I then tried the setp up above with a Renault in a single race mode and managed a best lap of 1:26:200 (same set up, controller, etc as yours).
Any ideas?
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Santoaxe
1. RE: MF1 Setup - Australia GP
Sep 1 2011, 1:24 PM EDT | Post edited: Sep 1 2011, 1:24 PM EDT
Hi tavramov

well you are doing better than me. I am using the PS3 controller and best I can do with this setup is a 1:31:311. Care to share your setup?
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tavramov
2. RE: MF1 Setup - Australia GP
Sep 1 2011, 7:34 PM EDT | Post edited: Sep 1 2011, 7:34 PM EDT
Santoaxe,
I used the exact set up as described above. I have been able to dip below 1m:30s only 2-3 times. My consistent time runs around 1:30:200. (That is why I did the test with the Renault as it is a much superior car to the MF1). With that being said, I found out that there are 4 high speed corners that can make/break your time and it is tricky to get all 4 of them right in the same lap. First set of corners: coming out of turn 4 and taking turn 5 with full trottle. This saves 0.5- 0.7 seconds but you can not "over-cook" turn 4. Next turn to watch is #9. Need to get on the break a bit earlier than intuition tells you, so that you can make a clean turn and floor the gas at the apex, without the chance of oversteer. Next set of corners, turn 11 and turn 12 are the second set of high speed corners where you can cut 0.5-0.6 seconds. The key is breaking early into turn 11, flicking the car to the left enough to make it rotate and then an immediate full trotle at the apex and all the way throughout turn 12. Again, if you over cook turn 11, you will not be able to maintain full trottle in Turn 12. Last corner to watch is turn 14. If 11-12-13 are done right, you will be approaching turn 14 at a very rapid speed and it is extremely difficult (for me anyway) to get the optimum breaking point/ speed going into the corner. I leave 0.2-0.3 sec on this corner routinely. I hope this helps. I have spent more time on this game that I would like to admit but darn it, every time I trun this game on, it turns into an all nighter...
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Santoaxe
3. RE: MF1 Setup - Australia GP
Sep 2 2011, 6:52 AM EDT | Post edited: Sep 2 2011, 6:52 AM EDT
Yep, I managed to dip into a 1:29 ish just once but no way could maintain it consistently (and if it rains forget it I just quit and restart without saving hoping for no rain :)). I agree with your synopsis as I know when I got into the 1:29's I got turn 4 & 5 spot on (even managed to stay full tilt through 5, not good for the heart though and impossible to do this routinely). I actually reduced the wing levels to give me more straight line speed especially down the main straight and set them up as rear at 44 and front at 48 just to give me a bit more turn in. It helps a bit keeping the quicker cars behind as especially during the race they are not that intuitive about lapping you. I find you have to slow quite a bit before they decide to go past but also if you ignore them they end up punting you off in a corner while trying to dive down a gap that does not exist. Also what does not help is the turn in for the car is never consistent. Sometimes it turns in beautifully (sometimes so nicely I get surprised and nearly fall off the track :)) and then when I try and do the same the next lap I get terminal understeer. The turning of the car also about 75% of the time seems to react slightly after you turn the controller (I am actually turning the controller for the steering input rather than the joystick as it gives a sense of more realism).

I also just realised I am actually in the Super Aguri rather than MF1 but don't think there is much in it. I don't think it is possible to get into the 1:26's with these cars as I believe they are designed in the game to be inherently slower and less balanced than the Renault's, Ferrari's, Maclaren's etc which is fine and more realistic but was hoping I could be fighting for at least 16th as the career target in this car is to beat team mate obviously but at least try and achieve 18th. Anyway will try again. Agree with the all nighter statement. Funny.
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argiriano
4. RE: MF1 Setup - Australia GP
Apr 6 2012, 8:30 AM EDT | Post edited: Apr 6 2012, 8:30 AM EDT
I manage to post some consistant 1:28 and 1:29 through the race with ToroRosso, but I changed set-up slightly. A little bit more wing, and much shorter gear ratios, espacially final 3 gears. You have worse top speed, but much better traction and braking and could carry more speed trough the corners. Do you find this valuable?    

argiriano
5. RE: MF1 Setup - Australia GP
Apr 6 2012, 9:46 AM EDT | Post edited: Apr 6 2012, 9:46 AM EDT
I just manage to do 1:26,252 in Q2 with ToroRosso but I use different gear ratios.

gears:
I - 16.7
II - 13.1
III - 10.9
IV - 9.6
V - 8.5
VI - 7.7
VII - 7.1

I also use more wings - 70/75 and a bit more front brake bias. The rest of the set-up is the same. Top speed didn`t exceed 290km/h but branking and shifting is much better.
In the race you have to use almost all curbs but sometimes the car just slides at the opposite direction (turns 5 and 9) when puting the power down so you have to lift a bit. I manage to put consistent mid 1:27 trough the race with low 1:28 at the begining of the stints and when made small mistakes, and consistent low 1:27 at the end of the stints with the fastest lap of 1:26,9.

The result was finishing 6th (ahead of Button and Alonso) on 30% hard race and laping my team mate. ;)
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newF1CEfan
6. RE: car set ups
Apr 23 2013, 7:56 PM EDT | Post edited: Apr 23 2013, 7:56 PM EDT
I;ve just got seriously into this game today, what i have realised is that traction control is the most important set up aspect, you really need to have none to get the most power out of your car, traction control cuts fuel to the engine when their is any wheel spin, since i have did that it feels very realistic, i used to think it was too much of an arcade game but is it hell, well ive just been looking for information on formula one car set ups, I think there is too much negative rear camber on these set ups which is reducing power available to the rear wheels and traction control is way too high
ive not tried it out yet but i think making the suspension slightly stiffer than default by increasing the bump and rebound may be the way to get that little bit more out of the car, you dont touch the spring stiffness
the other thing i found out is that if you lower your car then you need to increase the negative camber slightly to the front wheels, the general rule is that the rear camber should be as nuetral as possible.
Front toe should ideally be nuetral unless you have exhausted all other options to increase the turn in of your car, then it should be slightly negative thats pointing inwards at front and positive at rear but i dont think you can touch the rear toe in this game, but the advice is to have it nuetral and only use it as a last resort
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tavramov
7. RE: car set ups
May 27 2013, 5:18 PM EDT | Post edited: May 27 2013, 5:18 PM EDT
"I;ve just got seriously into this game today, what i have realised is that traction control is the most important set up aspect, you really need to have none to get the most power out of your car, traction control cuts fuel to the engine when their is any wheel spin, since i have did that it feels very realistic, i used to think it was too much of an arcade game but is it hell, well ive just been looking for information on formula one car set ups, I think there is too much negative rear camber on these set ups which is reducing power available to the rear wheels and traction control is way too high
ive not tried it out yet but i think making the suspension slightly stiffer than default by increasing the bump and rebound may be the way to get that little bit more out of the car, you dont touch the spring stiffness
the other thing i found out is that if you lower your car then you need to increase the negative camber slightly to the front wheels, the general rule is that the rear camber should be as nuetral as possible.
Front toe should ideally be nuetral unless you have exhausted all other options to increase the turn in of your car, then it should be slightly negative thats pointing inwards at front and positive at rear but i dont think you can touch the rear toe in this game, but the advice is to have it nuetral and only use it as a last resort"
What times have you been able to post? What car are you driving? I have also tried to play with the settings but I can't beat my times that I did, using the setup advise on this web page.
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newF1CEfan
8. RE: car set ups
May 28 2013, 11:53 AM EDT | Post edited: May 28 2013, 11:53 AM EDT
"What times have you been able to post? What car are you driving? I have also tried to play with the settings but I can't beat my times that I did, using the setup advise on this web page."
been kind of side tracked playing wrc2 with new set ups but I did have a couple of shots of F1 but havnt put a lot of time into making a set up but I have used the same formula for the rally car set ups for the formula one and it seems to work extremely well.

So the basic rules I have been using are
soft front suspension to increase turn in
low front roll bars to increase turn in

i have used a little negative camber about -0.7 on the front and less on the back say -0.2 and having front toe as a negative value, it is positive as default.
I'll post back my set up i made for san marino i think its the only one ive made so far but i recommend you read the the f1 technical dictionary for some extra tips http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/

i havnt used this one myself but it may help http://homepage.ntlworld.com/terry.cresswell/handling.html
the one for rally cars which is good if you know how to set up your suspension already is the Subaru Rally Car Setup by Dave Lapworth
I think you should get some information on suspension because thats what i did

i think in a formula one car they are trying to find the maximum turn in which will still allow it to be controllable at high speed, high speed turns are where i usually find faults with my set up
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newF1CEfan
9. RE: car set ups
May 29 2013, 9:54 AM EDT | Post edited: May 29 2013, 9:56 AM EDT
"What times have you been able to post? What car are you driving? I have also tried to play with the settings but I can't beat my times that I did, using the setup advise on this web page."
I did this one this morning

Time trial no tyre wear
Renault
MELBOURNE
1m 30.287
Tyres & Grip:
Tyre type = Dry Tyre
Compound = Soft
Tyre Pressures: Front = 15 psi Rear = 10 psi
Live Dynamics: Traction Control = 0% zero

Handling:
Front Wing = 62% Rear Wing = 68%
Front suspension = 1 (one) Rear Suspension = 14

Advanced Geometry: Front camber = -0.1 Rear Camber = 0.0 Toe = -0.002

Advanced Suspension: Ride Height = 30 mm Front Anti-Roll = 10000 N/m/s Rear Anti-Roll = 126,000 N/m/s Front Rebound Damping = 8000 N/m/s Rear Rebound Damping = 10000 N/m/s Front Bump Damping = 6000 N/m/s Rear Bump Damping = 8000 N/m/s

Speed: Drag/Downforce =Custom
Gearbox Type = Manual
Gearbox Ratio = Custom
Gears all default

Brakes: Anti-Lock Brakes = OFF
Live Dynamics: Brake Bias = 80/20

This is a setting where you use the roll of the car to find grip on the corners, I think it behaves like a what you would expect from a formula one car , so i think its along the right lines
If the suspension was made harder but kept in balance like it is it would go faster on the straight but may lose a lot of time in the corners

Ride height is at max to enable the weight transfer to be used better but sometimes left foot braking could help in high speed corner where changing direction is needed
I like it in principle but lower ride height might be better i don’t know yet but it wouldn’t make you corner any better and it would mean you would need more camber to find grip in the corners so higher ride height will be much kinder on the tyres, the biggest disadvantage is that it takes a lot more control to avoid spinning out
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tavramov
10. RE: car set ups
May 29 2013, 5:46 PM EDT | Post edited: May 29 2013, 5:46 PM EDT
Are you using a steering wheel and pedals? Also, a 1:30 flat lap around Melbourne is only good for a 17-18 qualification spot. How do we get down to 1:26 - 1:27 range to stay in the top 10? I still would love to know at what point can you get an offer at a top tier team. I ran some tests with the Renaut and I got a low 1:26 time. But in HARD career mode, I can't ever get to the tier 1 or tier 2 cars! :( Do you find this valuable?    

newF1CEfan
11. RE: car set ups
May 29 2013, 7:52 PM EDT | Post edited: May 29 2013, 7:52 PM EDT
"Are you using a steering wheel and pedals? Also, a 1:30 flat lap around Melbourne is only good for a 17-18 qualification spot. How do we get down to 1:26 - 1:27 range to stay in the top 10? I still would love to know at what point can you get an offer at a top tier team. I ran some tests with the Renaut and I got a low 1:26 time. But in HARD career mode, I can't ever get to the tier 1 or tier 2 cars! :("
dont know about the career mode man not had enough time to try it

well tonight i managed to get my time down to 1:28.976 by changing the front and rear camber and toe to zero, it feels a lot more realistic, well when i see a formula one car i see it sliding around on the limit but cornering really well, this is what it is like.
I also used the gear ratios on here Gear 1 = 17.8
Gear 2 = 14.0

Gear 3 = 11.4

Gear 4 = 9.8

Gear 5 = 8.5

Gear 6 = 7.9

Gear 7 = 7.2

im using a steering wheel and pedals, I tried it with the controller and it feels really sensitive but with a bit of practice i think i could get used to it, i think the high ride height reduces wheel lock up because watching replays when ive been using steering wheel im not locking at all but usually its unavoidable.
I dont know if i would need to use a little bit of traction control to get my times down but i doubt it, i think its mostly down to my poor driving than anything, the good thing about this set up is that it turns in well and can ride all the kerbs so i just need to cut the corners and take more speed onto the next straight i think, but of course every set up can be improved upon but i think a lot of it is down to style, for example when shumacher was the best he set up the car for his team mate and they didnt know how to drive it i heard
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newF1CEfan
12. RE: car set ups
Jun 1 2013, 1:20 PM EDT | Post edited: Jun 1 2013, 1:20 PM EDT
"Are you using a steering wheel and pedals? Also, a 1:30 flat lap around Melbourne is only good for a 17-18 qualification spot. How do we get down to 1:26 - 1:27 range to stay in the top 10? I still would love to know at what point can you get an offer at a top tier team. I ran some tests with the Renaut and I got a low 1:26 time. But in HARD career mode, I can't ever get to the tier 1 or tier 2 cars! :("
I just posted this in time trial with tyre wear and tear on, my basic principles are right the next thing I will adjust to see what happens is the roll bar
1m 26.436
Tyres & Grip:
Tyre type = Dry Tyre
Compound = Soft
Tyre Pressures: Front = 15 psi Rear = 10 psi
Live Dynamics: Traction Control = 0% zero

Handling:
Oversteer/Understeer: Front Wing = 42% Rear Wing = 48%
Front suspension = 1 (one) Rear Suspension = 14

Advanced Geometry: Front camber = 0.0 Rear Camber = 0.0 Toe = -0.000

Advanced Suspension: Ride Height = 29 mm Front Anti-Roll = 10000 N/m/s Rear Anti-Roll = 126,000 N/m/s Front Rebound Damping = between 8500 N/m/s Rear Rebound Damping = 8500 N/m/s Front Bump Damping = 8000 N/m/s Rear Bump Damping = 8000 N/m/s

Speed: Drag/Downforce =Custom
Gearbox Type = Manual
Gearbox Ratio = Custom
Gear 1 = 17.8
Gear 2 = 14.0

Gear 3 = 11.4

Gear 4 = 9.8

Gear 5 = 8.5

Gear 6 = 7.9

Gear 7 = 7.2


Brakes: Anti-Lock Brakes = OFF
Live Dynamics: Brake Bias = 80/20

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newF1CEfan
13. RE: car set ups
Jun 2 2013, 4:26 AM EDT | Post edited: Jun 2 2013, 4:26 AM EDT
Decided to Stick with this for basic chassis for each track to adapt and stick to medium difficulty with no abs or traction control
On hard with abs and traction control it is competitive but it is a borefest, you can get it perfect everytime no problems
Tyres & Grip:
Tyre type = Dry Tyre
Compound = Soft
Tyre Pressures: Front = 15 psi Rear = 10 psi
Live Dynamics: Traction Control = 0% zero

Handling:
Oversteer/Understeer: Front Wing = 42% Rear Wing = 48%
Front suspension = 1 (one) Rear Suspension = 14

Advanced Geometry: Front camber = 0.0 Rear Camber = 0.0 Toe = -0.000

Advanced Suspension: Ride Height = 29 mm Front Anti-Roll = 10000 N/m/s Rear Anti-Roll = 124,000 N/m/s Front Rebound Damping = between 8400 N/m/s Rear Rebound Damping = 8500 N/m/s Front Bump Damping = 7900 N/m/s Rear Bump Damping = 8000 N/m/s

Speed: Drag/Downforce =Custom
Gearbox Type = Manual
Gearbox Ratio = Custom
Gear 1 = 17.8
Gear 2 = 14.0

Gear 3 = 11.4

Gear 4 = 9.8

Gear 5 = 8.5

Gear 6 = 7.9

Gear 7 = 7.2


Brakes: Anti-Lock Brakes = OFF
Live Dynamics: Brake Bias = 80/20

















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